Indian Creek

Summer is coming to a close and I didn't get much done in the way of climbing this year, but this past April I had a chance to head out to Indian Creek in southeastern Utah to sample some of the best crack climbing on the planet. Indian Creek is the mecca for crack climbing and its rock is unique. It is Windgate Sandstone which is very strong for sandstone and also splits from the rock in perfect ways. This is the only place that I've ever climbed where you can literally climb the same size crack for a whole pitch. No tapering or fluctuation like in granite or other forms of rock. There is an aesthetic and physical beauty in the rocks consistency. The climbs at Indian Creek are also very physical. They're steep, long, and require a lot of endurance.

My buddy Josh from California flew out to Utah and after picking him up at the airport we made the 5 hour drive to the Creek. A couple of other buddies, Galo & Pachu, Argentineans who live in San Diego, were already out there so we met up with them. It was a beautiful drive in. Here are a few of my first views of the Creek.



The tower on the left is called South Six Shooter and the one on the right is the North Sixth Shooter. On our last day here, Josh and I climbed the North Sixth Shooter via Lightning Bolt Cracks, a burly 5.11 3 pitch climb that we got spanked on. It's a classic desert route with one of the coolest, airiest summits I've ever been on.



Our first day out we warmed up on a gorgeous 5.10 finger crack and then Josh wanted to lead a stiff 5.11 dihedral called Blue Grandma. I almost puked at the top of this climb it was so physical. Here's Josh Pelletier getting into the crux of this sucker.



I toproped it after Josh led it and stayed up top to take photos of Galo leading it. Caught this nice little whipper he took.



But he got back on and sent it.



Josh & Galo talking about route possibilities on day 2.



We were lucky enough to find no one on the uber classic Supercrack of the Desert. THE classic desert splitter. Here's the one and only Josh P leading it in style. This has to be one of the sweetest cracks I've climbed.



After that we were able to get on The Incredible Handcrack, an amazing 5.10b handcrack that is, without a doubt, the best crack I have ever climbed in my life. It's perfect handjams for the whole climb. Here's Josh P top roping it after I led it.



Then we headed to another area of the Creek called Way Rambo wall. We toproped a burly 5.12- and I led this beautiful splitter 10a.



Looking out over the valley.



Galo tried this crazy 5.12 corner. I just took photos and watched. That guy is strong.



Another shot of the South and North Six Shooters.



On our way out of town Josh and I drove into Arches National Park since I'd never been. This place was amazingly beautiful. They shot the beginning of Indian Jones and the Last Crusade here. Spectacular country.





Balancing Rock.



The beautiful La Sal Mountains form the backdrop of this park. Although the snow is hit or miss on them, there is supposed to be some great backcountry skiing in good snow years.



Another crazy arch.